Thread Breaking while embroidering on Diamond

I have a new Viking Diamond, less than a month, and I am having quite a bit of problems with the thread breaking.  When I am embroidering, the thread will start to ‘catapiller’ and then break.  I sometimes cannot get through a pattern without this happening numerous times:  I have tried different top threads (40 wt) and bobbin threads (60wt) and needles (Inspira), but nothing is helping.  I was wondering is this a common problem with the Diamond?  If so, how was it resolved?

There has been a lot of talk on the net about thread breaking but I have had very little trouble myself. I will see if I can post a picture of the very odd way I thread my machine. (image to come) Here are some suggestions in the meantime:

1. Fresh needle,
2. Use a Thread stand
3. Cleaning out bobbin area
4. Topstitch or titanium needle

I ALWAYS thread off a thread stand unless I am using Mettler thread on a spool.( I usually use the ultra cheap QA embroidery threads). If I get shredding I always try changing to a fresh needle – 90% of the time it fixes the problem. I only ever use topstitch or titanium needles for embroidery. I try to completely pull the bobbin area apart and clean it out before each large embroidery.

I hope this information helps.

Carolyn Duncan

I have found that this thread path gives me great bobbin winding. From a cone on a thread stand across to a clip in the lid (part of the HV multi-thread stand setup) then down and around the spool cap standing on the main spool pin in an upright position. Then across to the thread tension disk for bobbin winding making sure that the thread lays in the small metal bobbin winding thread guide.

I use large cones of “Rasant” thread for most of my general sewing and quilting and the embroidery threads that I use are a collection of the cheapest I can get. Usually boxes of QA embroidery thread. 

When threading for embroidery or general sewing I run the thread as explained above but once around the upright spool pin then just through the standard threading path exactly as in the manual.

I have very little problem with thread breaking.  I make embroidered shopping bags to sell at local markets using very large designs. I have altered my foot position on my Diamond to -1 for embroidery (Page 3.8 in manual)

Carolyn Duncan

30 thoughts on “Thread Breaking while embroidering on Diamond”

  1. I have worked on numerous Viking machines…and am having this exact problem on my brand new Topaz…it is SOOOOOO frustrating. I have worked on Designer 1, 2 and SE LE and this Topaz is making me crazy. I have a tad better luck with thicker threads, but not much…and forget about metallic…BUT my SE is soooo much better. I want to upgrade to a Diamond, but not if this keeps happening….right now this Topaz is headed for ebay.

  2. I have that problem sometimes with my machine,, usually it is when I am trying to use the spray on basting spray to keep something together or when I am using the sticky stabalizer. I change my needle often and use a thread holder. It is a large heavy circle with a long metal pole sticking up out of it and you put the thread on the spindle on the circle and the thread goes through the top of the metal pole and then threads into my machine,, this helps and also using the proper needle for the material you are using. Hope some of this helps

  3. I know this seems silly, but are you absolutely certain you’re threading the bobbin in the correct direction? I had the same sort of issues & tried everything before I discovered I was putting a pre-wound bobbin turning the wrong way (a habit from my previous Viking. I was even told by one person that I couldn’t use pre-wound bobbins! Now I have no problems. I put a clear label w/ a drawing of a counter-clockwise arrow where I would see it! That solved the problem.

  4. Hi all,

    I had the same problem with my Topaz last year when I got it and I was ready to throw the machine out the window. It is not the type of thread or the bobbin, it is threading the machine. You have to be very careful to make sure the thread doesn’t slip off the arm that moves up and down (can’t remember what it’s called), if it slips off the bobbin thread will tangle. I have gotten into the habit of making sure it “clicks” when I pull the thread thru to the needle to thread it and the problem has resolved. I can even use prewound cardboard bobbins without problems. Hope this helps.

  5. I went through all of the above. My wife’s machine went along and never missed a stitch. Mine ate thread no matter what I did. It was finally replaced and I have not had a problem with the new one. Mine was one of the originals and that was just one of the many problems I had, my wife’s was a later one. I love my new Diamond, it is great.

  6. I too use the inexpensive threads and my choice is Threadelight Polyester. The thread stand is not just an option for me it is a requirement. I use a standard 80/12 needle for most fabrics and for lace and lighter fabrics I use a 75/11. I always use a metallic needle when using metallic threads which I have found FUFU to have the best in metallic threads. I taped a piece of foam on the top of my diamond and when the thread comes off the spool from my thread stand it goes through the piece of foam on top of the machine and then into the tension disks. This eliminates the “jerky” movement before the thread feeds through the tension disks. Have a can of air handy at all times and do like Carolyn says and keep that bobbin area clean! Using the right stabilizer will also help reduce thread breakage. Go online and find a really good chart that shows you which to use on what fabrics. You also might want to disable the Auto Jump Stitch feature if you have one as it is only good on Husqvarna designs.
    I hope this all helps. Dixie Ann

  7. Even tho I don’t own a Viking/Husqvarna machine, having been a long armer in my previous life … it sure sounds like the needle eye to me. If you have more than you package of needles, change to a completely different pack. I can’t imagine being able to machine 100s or 1000s of needles at one time and have them all perfect. If you have a different brand of the same size needle try that, too.

  8. Take it back to the dealer. There is a problem with the take up lever – Viking is replacing it free for the Diamond. I don’t know about the Topaz.

  9. I have a diamond also and I was having the same problem, I was ready to throw it away. I talked to my dealer and after several attempts to get it fixed he talked to viking and they put a differant take up lever on it { my worst problem was the thread coming out of the take up lever } now it sews like a charm. Love it again

  10. I have a Designer I and had the same problem. I found a great gadget at that attaches to the the thread holder (on many machines) and it basically provides an “eyelet” for the thread to pass through before you begin to thread your machine. It works great — is about $13.00 — and it works great with metallic thread as well. It pretty much eliminated my thread breaking problem. And I use “cheap” thread. Prior to buying the “gadget” I used one of those self-adhesive plastic hooks (smallest size)and affixed it upside down just below my thread holder on the machine and ran the thread under the “hook” and then threaded my machine as usual. It too worked fine and eliminated the problem. Hope this helps.

  11. I have sewn for years, but took a break until recently when my husband bought me the Topaz. Before I always had a Singer and didn’t worry as much about ruining my machine. I was wondering, can I use other brands of needles with my machine, or am I stuck buying the ones the dealer sells? Also do any of you know of any course/books for Viking embroidery machines, I’m in Columbus Ohio and all the classes are specific to other machines.



  12. Hi, I have a Diamond. It was fine for over a year. Then I started having problems with the upper thread keep braking. I tried everything I could think of to solve the problem, nothing worked. It got worse and worse until suddenly it stopped sewing altogether – the needle no longer caught up the bobbin thread. It was fixed by the dealer and is now fine. It was really frustrating.

  13. Actually all you have to do is use a different (more expensive) needle. I had the same problem and turns out that there is a special needle that works better. Your dealer should be able to help.

  14. i have had 2 designer diamonds and and neither worked . not only did i have constant thread breaks but i had constant bird nesting. i could not finish an embroidery. the first machine even went to vikings service center and came back with the same problems. they gave me a new machine. the second one was as bad as the first. we have a lemon law in arizona so i think that is why i got a different brand from my dealer with no questions asked. a friend had the exact same problems but when she got her second machine it worked. i used vikings for 30 years and never had problems until the diamond.

  15. I had trouble with rayon threads breaking. The colors are prettier in my opinion but difficult. I found by slowing down the speed to 300 on my Brother embroidery machine I no longer had a problem with thread breaking. I intend to try this on metallic threads too. It is probably in your manual as to how to accomplish this or contact your manufacturer. It is different than slowing the straight sewing speed.

  16. I have a new diamond and mam having problems with tread breaking. Had it to dealer’s repair man but it still has a problem. Talked with dealer but – got some suggestions – nothing seems to help. First time I was told that I had regular thread (by mistake) in bobbin. I have rectified that but still have the problem. It is an awful lot of money for a machine that doesn’t work. PLEASE CAN ANYONE HELP?

  17. I also have a Viking Diamond – and for a long time, I really LOVED it. I’ve gotten half way through two attempts to stitch out a label (24,000+ stitches) for my grandson’s graduation quilt, and both times, the threads nested down in the bobbin area and messed up the label. I’m about ready to toss it (the Viking) out a window – but I have WAY too much money tied up in it!! I’m going to try the rethreading idea listed above, and pray that it works!!! My machine hasn’t worked properly since the last time I had it cleaned and serviced. Bummer!!!

  18. The take-up lever on my Designer 1 allows the thread to slip back into the gears of the machine. The thread, after slipping, becomes entangled in the gears. I am aware of the fact that I am not the only person with this problem. I am also aware that the Diamond and several other machines have been modified to end this problem. I believe that the magnitude of the problem should result in a recall of all the machines. I have had people tell me to get #10 insulated electrical wire and take out the wire and slip the rubber tube onto the take-up lever to help prevent the problem. Considering the cost and expected craftsmanship of the machine, I find these and the other suggestions I have been given to be ridiculous. However, I can not afford to continue to lose the time for the repeated service repairs (take machine appart and detangle). Does anyone have a recommendation that might solve my problem? Also, I have tried to contact the company only to be on the phone waiting for an hour or have my email sent back due to a server issue. Thank you for any help!!!! Desperate

  19. I have the Designer 1 and I do exactly the same as Carolyn has suggested in this article to avoid thread breakages when embroidering. I thread exactly the same way and I have the same thread stand shown on the right of the picture. I also increase the foot pressure as she suggests although I would use -2. You do still need to allow the foot to hover so don’t increase the pressure too much. That is a trick I used on my Orchidea when I had trouble with thread breaking. I found that the recommended hatched area for foot pressure on the Orchidea was not enough and it worked much better if I increased the pressure.

  20. I feel that my Diamond is a lemon. I had all the problems described with the take up lever – that problem was fixed – Next, every time I tried to embroider I got the message about recalibrating the hoop, sometimes 3 to 4 times. After that a new ??panel was installed and that ended that problem – Next, now when I put a design in to embroider the needle goes up and down about 6 times a minute. I tried to restart the machine, change hoops, change design but it still does the same thing. It’s going in for service AGAIN tomorrow. I honestly think I’ll switch to Bernina after purchasing a D-1, SE- Diamond and 936 Serger from Viking.

  21. Am new to embroidery & I got my topaz 20 in dec. I have been having same issues, but my 2 biggest questions are 1. when this happens, how do’back up’ the needle to fix the missed stitches? 2. Is there any way to go back to a certain place in your design to ‘re-stitch’ while still hooped even when it has embroidered past the iss?
    Any insight is greatly appreciated!

  22. I have a designer diamond deluxe. I have had none of these problems. My dealer said to always use good needles and recommended Floriani thread. I also purchase prewound bobbins.

  23. I am so digusted and frustrated with my Viking Ruby. It is a big idea in a department store machine. The thread jumps off the take up lever, coils and shreds, no matter what I’ve tried to do. I’ve tried different threads, relacing the needles, thread holders, manually guiding the thread into the machine. Nothing works, and no matter where I look for reviews, they are all the same for all makes and models of Viking machines. The Ruby SE came out sixth months after I bought mine, supposedly with an improved tension system. I aksed my dealer if I could trade it in but her reply was “we can’t make money that way”. Thanks to all of you for your very helpful suggestions, but for the cost of these machines, we should NEVER have to make modifications to them. These machines cost a lot of money in addition to what we have invested in trying to resolve the problems and accessories. For our frustration alone, I think we should be compensated. Anybody agree??

  24. There are many problems with the threading of this machine, with the needles breaking, with automatic tension that isn’t right etc. This is what I have done….
    I no longer use the spool holders ( two round plastic discs that capture the thread in one place). I use the large holder in the back and then a spring fastener ( like a paper clip – but holds more secure) to clip the thread spool. If the holders are supposed to hold the spool in one place – this does the job. With this method I can forget about using the thread net. If the machine is set too fast, it will not respond to the capacity of the thread to spool off – so keep the speed lower.
    Needles, Needles.
    What causes the needs to break off is the shifting of the bobbin case. Unless the top metal plate is down an secure on both sides, and unless the bobbin case is not set in properly, the bobbin case will move position, in that case the needle hits part of the bobbin case and causes the needle to break. The machine is not able to handle excessive over stitching in any design. So if your stitching on the design is too thick, it’s not a good design to use on this machine – the needle will break off because there is not enough power in the machine to force the needle through a thick object.

    Thread tension that is supposed to be automatically set by the design. I watch the first several stiches of the design, and then stop the machine to see if there is loopy thread on the bottom or on the top. If it is loopy on the bottom – I use the tension button and hit the minus side once, and then watch it stitch again, and repeat the process until the thread tension is equal on the top and the bottom. Loopy top – hit the + side of the tension button etc.

    Software loops – the laptop tells me the machine is holding the large hoop, however error messages continue to occur that tell you , you need put the large hoop in – in other words, the laptop sees it’s large, the sewing machine is seeing it as large – but the sewing arm is not seeing it as large. This occurs when there is a mechanical failure on the hoop snap-in location. There are three very flimsy contacts with two pieces of metal on them. One that stand out a little, and one that is closer to the contact relay in the arm. These tangs can break off if the machine get’s stuck on a design that is too thick, or if you are not careful when sliding in and out the hoops, or if you have something in the way of the machine arm when you open the machine ( a lamp or fan) All three cases can cause on of the metal tangs to snap off. I am now searching for a place to repair the machine arm contacts so that I can embroider again.

    Frustrating, but at least I am figuring out.

  25. I have found that nearly every problem, thread bunching under the bobbin, thread breaking, missed stiches, etc. have been solved on my Viking diamond now that I have it plugged into a uninterrupted power supply instead of straight to the regular plugin…It is a very sensitive computer and where I live, just a bit out of town, there are a lot of power fluctuations. A strange solution, but one that the dealership where I bought the machine knew about and was dead on correct!

  26. I have a Designer Diamond Deluxe which I bought as a demo model about 10 months ago for £4,000. It hadn’t even been registered which is why it was so expensive. Within 6 weeks it had to go back to Husqvarna to have the new software installed because the dealer hadn’t bothered to update it prior to purchase. After 6 weeks it blue screened on me and then the machine said the buttonhole foot was on the machine despite it not being! These were fixed but it took until the end of January to get the machine back to me – they had it in for repair on 6 December. It worked ok until the end of February when it was exhibiting the problem of the screen going black and the bobbin continuing to wind to the end of the reel! I mean the whole reel would wind as the sensor had stopped working – there was thread everywhere. The dealer wouldn’t listen so I took video evidence to the sewing show at the NEC in Birmingham where I showed the staff from Husqvarna HQ. The machine was booked in for repair again and I lost it for only 3 weeks this time. It needed a new pc board. For a machine which by this time was only 6 months old to me, to need a new pc board is disgusting. Then within a month of getting it back – June 2014 I was having problems again with the designs not stitching out and the original buttonhole sensor message re-appearing. Also none of the designs would stitch out – even VP3 designs – as the dealer told me it was because I was using a JEF design, despite being told this machine could read all formats – one of the reasons for trading in my old Janome 11000 machine. I told them that a repair wasn’t good enough and I wanted a new machine or a refund. I heard nothing and eventually had to threaten the small claims court as I had contacted Trading Standards who said the machine was not fit for purpose. I eventually got a replacement machine which has failed since getting it out of the box. It chews up every design and hasn’t stitched a thing since the end of June. I am now waiting to take it to the warranty centre this week to get them to fix it once and for all. All they want to do is to test stitch their own designs out – not ones I want to use. I have used a built-in design, bobbin thread from the last repair which was left in the machine, stabilizer from the dealers and the embroidery thread which came with the machine and it won’t even stitch that. I would never, ever recommend this machine to anyone – the service I have had from Husqvarna is absolutely diabolical and I warned them that I would put bad reviews wherever I can to dissuade anyone buying one – I have a huge following on my social network pages and many are following this saga. Now nearly 10 months on I have had a working machine for 3 of those months – will I have a working machine on Thursday? Will I heck!

  27. I have a Designer SE and I was having the same problems with embroidering a design – could not get through one without a bird’s nest and needles breaking. These machines, no matter the style are basically set up the same. So after trial and error I figured out that the plate that covers the feed dogs was loose, and I was surprised that it was not held down with screws. So with the machine vibrating while embroidering the plate and bobbin cover was moving so we pushed the bobbin cover tight against the metal plate and taped the bottom of the bobbin cover so they fit snug together and there was no movement and it WORKED! I am shocked with how expensive these machines are that I had to use tape to solve this problem. Also if you were to get it repaired they have to take off the plastic cover on the left side to get into the housing and it costs a fortune. Also if your plate has any little dents or scratches that means the plate is moving and breaking the needle and causing the bobbin thread to bird’s nest. Hope this helps.

  28. I have the designer diamond and I’m having tension problems and I don’t know how to fix it, what is the best embroidery needle? Or what embroidery needle should I use?

  29. My Designer Diamond Royale has many of the same problems mentioned above. The bobbin thread does not catch when attempting to stitch out an embroidery. It nests and then jams or breaks. It took 8 tries on on section before the thread caught so it would stitch. EVERY single thread change requires multiple attempts before it will stitch correctly. Have taken it to the dealer and had it in for repairs all to no avail. Taking it in again this Friday.

  30. I’ve got the Ruby with a lot of tension problems. And it seems it can’t be fixed. I tried everything where I could think off. Noting gives the solution. Does eneyone know of the Ruby Royale suffer the same problems as mentioned in previous posts?

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