Monogramming on Pants and Knit Material

I bought the 11000 and the sales lady told me it would be perfect to start my own business with that is a joke, there is so much that it will not do , so she lied!!!!! So now i have a 6, machine that i do not like. I can not go into a business not being able to do things like pocket books and such. maybe someone can help me. I tried to monogram on pants and it was not wide enough to place on the hoop like it should would a cap hoop let me do things like this, I just hate to buy one because I am not going to use it for caps. Also what do you do if your material is the knit material that slides and will not stick to the stablizer.

Thanks for your help.  Rhonda

10 thoughts on “Monogramming on Pants and Knit Material”

  1. Hi Rhonda

    I am assuming you purchased your machine from a dealer. You may want to stop back in and check out her inventory of stabilizers. A sticky back stabilizer would be helpful for knit. You hoop the stabilizer. Peel the protective coating off. Your stabilizer will now be sticky and position your knit project on it.

    Did you purchase the Macro hoop for the 11000?

    The 11000 is an awesome work horse.

    Reneah Raffay
    Janome Tutorials

  2. Rhonda,
    Your pants depend on WHERE you are embroidering and how easily you can access that spot. Is it on a leg where you can hardly get clearance? If so, you might need to open a seam. I have a 10000 and have pinned my fabric to the stabilizer. I then run a basting stitch around the hoop perimeter to secure the fabric to the stabilizer. Be sure you don’t stitch over the pins. (I got a set of basting stitches from the teacher at my dealer store. She digitized them for each size hoop in the digitizing software. I wonder if Janome has anything available like that on their website.) The perimeter basting eliminates the need for sticky stabilizer. Just use whatever stabilizer works best for your fabric (pants or knits).

    If the perimeter basting is too large for your pants, perhaps you could pin the fabric to the stabilizer and baste a smaller square around your design before you start. It won’t be as secure as basting the full hoop perimeter, but might be good enough to do what you need.

    I’m not sure if this will help with your specific situation, but I found perimeter basting to be a fantastic tool when I cannot hoop the actual fabric.


  3. I have a 10001(and salavate when I hear someone has a 11000) anyway I embroider on knits all the time, it does need some extra attention though. I use iron-on interfacing if knit is very loose and then use fabric spray adhesive to hold in place on to a stabilizer, I also place a water soluble clear stabalizer on top. Sometime I don’t hoop the knit fabric(because it does stretch) just use the adhesive onto the stabilizer and have had no problem. On the pants question, not understanding the problem clearly.I’ve had various Janome machines for the last 7yrs and loved everyone.

  4. As to your knit fabric that will not stick to the stablizer, try tacking it down. This should hold it. I don’t really understand about the monogramming on pants problem as you have several sizes of hoops to use.

  5. Rhonda,
    With your knit fabric have you tried using an Iron-on cutaway stabilizer?
    Make sure you stabilize an area slightly larger than your hoop size then hoop the fabric.
    Another way is to spray your stabilizer with 505 spray, hoop the stabilizer, stick the fabric to the stabilizer and use a basting stitch to secure the two pieces together. Good luck.

  6. Rhonda,

    You don’t want a hat hoop. I have a 11000 that I love.
    You should look into the optional FA (free arm) hoop.
    It is a small approx. 2″ x 2″ hoop that works with the free arm on the 11000. Remove your accessory box and the filet. Hoop your garment and slide over the free arm. You need enough play in the garment for the hoop to move freely. Also the 11000 has a basting feature that will baste just outside the design area firmly attaching the fabric and stabilizer together. You will find it on the ready to sew screen next to the tracing feature.

    Hope that helps and Good Luck.

  7. Rhonda, I don’t have an 11000, but have been using Janome machines since the 8000 came out and am acquainted with it. I’m not sure where you bought it and if you got it from a Janome dealer. There seems to have been a huge misunderstanding about your thoughts on starting a business and the seller’s thoughts on what you would be doing. I doubt if the seller was intentionally lying to you.

    These machines can do many things, but it is very important that if you haven’t done machine embroidery before, to spend some time learning how to use your machine, take the time to read/study books on machine embroidery, check out the different hoops that are available and different stabilizers. I don’t know what you meant by a ‘6’ or if that was a typo. I just sense from your note that you don’t have experience in this field and it is one that for regular designs, it is easy to get up and running in a short time on a machine like the 11000. However, for more specialized work, there is a great deal to learn depending on the fabrics, designs, garments, etc that you want to handle in your business. The Janome 11000 is still (I believe) considered to be a ‘home’ and not a ‘business’ machine and even ‘business style’ embroidery machines can’t do everything and you need to buy a machine that CAN do what you need it to. That being said and the machine having been purchased, you need to figure out what you can do with this machine. This machine can do much that the earlier home embroidery machines couldn’t do. Your question about the fabrics not sticking to the stabilizer tells me that there is much basic learning you need to be doing. The Jeanine Twigg series of books on machine embroidering are great for learning. Also Designs in Machine Embroidery Magazine has done some extensive articles in the past 2 years on making purses and embroidering on pants that you might find helpful for research purposes. If you can’t afford to buy the books, try getting them through interlibrary loan from you local library. A great place for finding out available books on machine embroidery is Amazon by doing a search on ‘machine embroidery’ and using the results as a reference to books to request from/through your library.

    Best wishes to a fun career.

  8. I agree with you, Gail. I am a veteran sewer, but novice at embroidery. I have an older Babylock Embroidery system and Berninas for sewing. One day I would like to get into Bernina line.

    This fall, I plan to teach at the bernina dealer in Scottsdale, AZ. Customers have Janome machines, so I am interested in learning all I can about these machines so that I can support all my students.

    Rhonda, don’t give up before you even start! You got the top of line Janome. It appears to be a workhorse. A lot of its performance closely resembles that of Babylock, and some of the intermediate Berninas.

    Proper hooping, and stablilizing is paramount to successful quality. May I add that using the right needle/thread for doing the specific job will make a big difference in the way you want the final project to look. I also recommend annual servicing of your machine, and clean the bobbin area and throat plate after each project. This makes a huge difference in the way the sewing machine operates, and you get to know your sewing machine as never before–like a marriage! It seems that your machine is scaring you, and you are feeling some intimidation by this.

    Good luck!

  9. Because knits are unstable and stretch in all directions, you have to stabilize them. Do this by using non-stretch dressmaking interfacing. Like cloth, this interfacing has a grainline. Cut two squares larger than the size of the design. Watching the grainline of the interfacing, place one against the grain (or stretch) of the knit, iron it on, then place the other against the stretch the opposite way. Use a regular tear-away stabilizer in the hoop. I don’t like to hoop knits, as the hoop leaves marks and do not like to use sticky stabilizers, so do a baste in the hoop, either by creating one in my software, or using the one on my machine. However, I do also hoop knits but will iron the knit on the wrong side immediately after removing the fabric from the hoop. Do not trim too close to the edges of the design. With experimentation, you may find you need only one application of the dressmaking interfacing. I have used this method for years on any types of knit, and it works every time.

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