Sew Artfully Yours has a new tutorial/project collection called Upside Down Mastery which teaches many aspects of creating bobbin work and is suitable for all brands of embroidery machines and standard zig zag sewing machines. It includes a CD with patterns for projects like purses, notebook covers, eyeglass cases and blackberry holders. Complete instructions are included, plus directions for fabric printing, and 14 embroidery designs digitized for heavy weight bobbin threads. Learn to create texture in this fun way with this wonderful book and CD set.

The uses of wing needles other then heirloom sewing…. I’ve seen where you can use wing needles to (I’m going to say) hem a piece of flannel to where you can crochet an edging around it. I have tried and tried and not been successful at this. What am I doing wrong or not doing properly? Please advise. Thanks and Merry Christmas, Marie.

Dear Marie,
 
Wing needles work best when used on natural fiber fabrics (like cotton or linen) with a very lightweight thread such as Mettler 60-weight cotton. You would select a heirloom stitch and use one or two layers of light weight tear away stabilizer underneath the stitches. I wouldn’t personally use it on flannel because it’s primary use is for hemming lightweight linen & cotton fabrics but if you must then practice, practice, practice! If you used it on a cotton lightweight flannel to evenly space the holes to add a crochet hem then use the longest stitch width & length that you machine will offer & the lightest weight cotton thread & tear away underneath.
 
There are several stitches that work well with a wing needle but if you do not use a tear away stabilizer, the stitches will look very sloppy and the needle will “chew” up the fabric. Below are two of the most common stitches to practice with:

• Entredeux stitch

• Pinstitch or Blanket stitch

Here is a photo of what a traditional wing needle hem looks like on a lightweight linen fabric. 

Hope
Designs by Hope Yoder Inc.

What is the best weight of fabric to use when embroidering a Sampler, ie a design for framing? I have used broadcloth (quite thin) and although I don’t hoop it taut, there is still puckering around some of the design. Possibly I should double the stabilizer or better still use a heavier fabric. Any helpful hints would be appreciated. Thanks, Mary, B.C. Canada

Hi Mary,

Well, it really depends on your designs. If they are pretty stitch intensive (like lots of large fill-stitched areas) than you probably need to be using a heavier weight fabric. I have found a really nice denim weight brushed twill at Wal-mart that works well for most heavy embroidery projects.

Another idea is to permanently stabilize your fabric using a piece of woven sew-in interfacing, commonly used in suit making. Just apply a piece of fusible webbing to the back of the fabric and then iron the interfacing over that. Stabilize as usual and embroider.

Another cool little interfacing trick that helps me out when my fabric wants to “wave” around a particularly dense design no matter what I do, is to apply a piece of it to the back of the finished design with fusible webbing after embroidery. Iron it on lightly to begin with from the back and then really press it on good from the front using a mini-iron all around the designs. The mini-iron lets you get really close to the embroidery without ironing over it and seals the “waves” down. After sealing the front, then finish it off with a good ironing on the back.
 
I am sure that you have read all the tips and helpful hints we have about proper hooping…as in, do not stretch the fabric or pull and tug on it after it is in the hoop. Adhering the stabilizer to the fabric before hooping prevents the urge to pull!
 
You might also consider using a cut-away stabilizer too. Sometimes designs that are dense actually do better with cut-away. I always try the lightest cut-away first, and then a bit heavier, if that doesn’t work.
 
I hope this helps…good luck, let us know how you do!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

Carolyn Keber has a new Embird mini-tutorial called An Appliqué Lesson using Font Engine. This 10 page tutorial shows how to use Font Engine lettering to create an appliqué and then edit the lettering so that it stitches out as appliqué should, in one stitch-out instead of individual letters. It is a timely lesson for Christmas - if you have any spare time left!

This mini-tutorial is available for immediate download in pdf format. If you are a member of Carolyn’s Embird Club you qualify for this tutorial free and would have already been contacted with your download information.
 
This month only, get $15 off Carolyn’s Step by Step Guide to Embird Studio Printed Book. Hurry this fantastic special offer is only valid until December 31st!

If you have you ever wondered about painting on fabric, or wanted to make beautiful backgrounds for your embroidery, then the new Mixed Media With Pfaff tutorial from Sew Artfully Yours is just what you need. If you don’t think of yourself as an artist, or can’t even draw a straight line, then you are the perfect candidate for this book - no straight lines are allowed! Learn just how easy it is to create your own background scenes with a little painting on fabric. This tutorial includes 5 scenes to choose from, with easy directions for embellishing your scene using decorative stitches. Let this Mixed Media tutorial help you find the artist hidden within!

Is there anything that can be done with a design that has embroidered out too sparse? There are gaps between some of the threads.

Hi Christine

One reason that the embroidery could be too sparse is that the density when the design was created was too low or that there is little or now underlay stitching in the design. The other reason could be that you are embroidering the design on a garment or article that is quite heavy - such as fleece, toweling or sweat-shirting. Heavier fabrics need a more dense design.

The reason why you are getting a gap where the design starts and finishes is that once again your fabric may be heavier than the design was intended for - and the design was possibly created in a digitizing program that has no overlap rows at the start/finish point to avoid this occurrence.

I can suggest two solutions for you:

1. Stitch the area out twice that is too thin, or -

2. Re-digitize the problem area and perhaps add your own underlay as well and then delete the original fill. This can be done in PEDS V6 using the Manual Punch tool to create the new object and then using Stitch to Block feature to separate and delete the problem fill.

I do have step by step lessons available for PE Design at Secrets of Embroidery if you need more help.

Kind regards
Carolyn
http://www.carolynkeber.com/
Step by Step Guides for all Embird programs.
*Pure New Zealand Merino Wraps and Beanies for Baby*
www.babylovemerino.com

I have a Brother PR 600 design, 1 head, 6 needles. I am embroidering on throws as Christmas gifts. I hoop them and then tug and tug to get the fabric straight in the hoop. I am also embroidering on felt Christmas stockings; and again hoop and then stretch and tug to keep the fabric straight for the design. Obviously, the throw fabric is thicker than the felt fabric but getting the fabric centered and straight is a real problem. I also have this problem when I stitch on polo shirts.

Dear Joan,
 
I’m not completely sure I understand your question, but it sounds like you are having trouble with design placement.
 
I’ve tried lots of hooping gimmicks and seen a few that looked interesting, but what works best for me, time and time again regardless of what project I’m working on, is to clearly mark the design placement on the project fabric first. But before I say anything else, please read the helpful hints found on my site at www.abitofstitch.com about proper hooping and stabilizing.It’s a very big no-no to tug or pull on the fabric after it is in the hoop…this will only distort your fabric causing puckers and wrinkles around the design after it has been removed from the hoop. You may be able to escape some of the puckering problems as you are working with throws (which are probably knitted or fleece) and non-woven felt…they are both forgiving materials…but in general, it’s a important NOT to stretch the fabric after you have hooped it.
 
Here are the steps I take to make sure my design ends up exactly where I want it to on my project:
 
1.  Print a template of your design. Most embroidery software programs have a feature that will let you print an actual size photo of the design as it will stitch in the hoop including the vertical and horizontal hoop alignment marks. This is an invaluable tool! Cut the template out, following the rectangle, or square, stitch perimeter mark around the design. Using a ruler, draw a line horizontally and vertically across the template to further enhance the horizontal and vertical hoop alignment marks.

6. Remove the plastic template and, if necessary, the paper template before stitching.
 
I hope this helps, if not, feel free to write again!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

I have been trying to embroider pillow cases and find the stitching draws up the fabric. I have pre-washed the cases. Anyone know what I am doing wrong?
Ruth

Hi Ruth,
 
This is a popular question You might find your answer in my response to the Trouble with Puckering question which deals with puckering that is caused by incorrectly hooping the fabric as well as stabilizing tips. You will definitely need another layer of stabilizer, especially if you are embroidering lettering (monograms). Satin stitches really tug on the fabric. I’m glad to hear that you are pre-washing though! Smart girl!
 
Let me know if that blog post helps, if not, we’ll try again!
 
Evy
http://www.abitofstitch.com/

Carolyn Keber’s new Font Creator Made Easy tutorial will teach you all you need to master this new addition to the PE Design/Palette Version 7 program. Font Creator allows you to create your own fonts to use within the Layout and Editing part of PE Design/Palette. If you have ever seen a great looking font, perhaps in a book of images or illustrations, but it wasn’t available in PE Design/Palette and not able to be imported into the PEDS program, then here’s how you can create it yourself, or something similar.

Work along with Carolyn as she takes you through the process of importing an image and creating your own font. You’ll be shown how to use the tools required to make your own text style plus the tricks and treats of the Font Creator program. By the end of the lesson you’ll be confident enough to dive in and create your own unique fonts.