Hope,

 
Dear Bobbie,
 
I think using a wing needle to make the holes for adding hand crochet edging is a GREAT idea. My suggestion would be to prewash the flannel as it shrinks quite a bit and then overcast the edges by either serging or using an overcast stitch on your machines.

Press the edges under just so the overcast stitches don’t show. You can use a bit of Wonder Tape or Steam A Seam 2 1/4″ fusible tape to keep the edges turned under. Create a practice swatch of flannel with the turned under hem and place a piece of lightweight tearaway underneath the hem area.

Select a blanket stitch found on your utility menu or a pinstitch on your heirloom menu and use a very lightweight cotton thread (like Madeira Tanne 80 weight or YLI 100 weight). Lengthen the stitch length as long as possible and adjust the width so it will jump over the hem or be as wide as you need for the hand stitches. The straight part of the stitch should go along the edge of the blanket and the ?bites? of the stitch will jump over towards the center of the blanket.

Practice until you get the length & width that will work for your hand stitches and then try it on the blanket.

Hope
http://www.secretsof.com/hopeyoder

Hi To All:

Hi Peggy,

Puckering around designs is aggravating! Thankfully it’s preventable. There are three main reasons why it happens. Here they are, along with a few suggestions on how to fix them.

Do not tug, pull or stretch the fabric when hooping it. While there are exceptions to this rule, for general purpose embroidery it is never a good idea to pull on the fabric after it is in the hoop. Forget anything you may ever have heard about “drum tight” fabric. That will just get you in major puckering trouble.

You mentioned in your letter that you are using self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer…that’s great! If you are applying the stabilizer to the fabric before you hoop it and the stabilizer
covers an area larger than the hoop it will prevent any possibility of tugging on the hooped fabric. Machine embroidery requires a flat, un-baggy, un-wrinkled and smooth as possible surface…but if the fabric is stretched it will revert to “un-stretched” when it is removed from the hoop…except for the area that was embroidered of course. So how does one provide a nice, flat, smooth surface without pulling the fabric tight in the hoop? Simple… adhere the stabilizer to the fabric before hooping it. (My favorite type of stabilizer is iron-on tear-away and when I feel I need more stabilizer for a project I just slide an additional piece of non-iron-on tear-away under the hoop after it is in the machine.)

A fabric that has not been pre-shrunk before embroidery can be a recipe for disaster. The higher the content of natural fiber, the greater the chance of a distorted and wrinkled look to your embroidery after it’s first wash. Nearly all fabric will have some degree of shrinkage when washed…just think about that poor piece of fabric under your embroidery, it’s trying to shrink too…resulting in a lumpy look that is ruffled around the edges! Just to be safe, I recommend pre-washing all washable fabrics before embroidery.

And finally, one important thing that is most overlooked by embroidery enthusiasts…the compatibility of the embroidery design with the chosen fabric. Simply put, some designs will not work on some fabrics no matter how much you want them to. (Which is why it is important to stitch test samples!) Commercial digitizers, those who digitize designs for company logos etc., create their work according to the product it will be stitched on. Certain types of fabrics require certain types of digitizing techniques for best results. Well, in the world of home embroidery things are different! (I usually have no idea what I’m going to put a design on when I buy it…I’m just adding to my “stash”!!!) However, I have learned that as a general rule the denser (more stitch intensive) the design, the heavier the weight of fabric will need to be. I just proved my own point to myself today, actually. I was stitching my Playful Kittens on the bodice of a baby boy romper. The fabric was 100% cotton, 200 thread count, very suitable for most embroidery designs…but I had my doubts that it would work for my stitch intensive kitties…and I was right. Yep, that one landed in the scrap basket and the next go-round using a heavier denim weight fabric worked perfectly.

I hope this helps you! Good luck!
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

Other than a good pair of sharp scissors, is there a tool that makes cutting all those jump threads easier?Fran

Well….there are these cool new machines that automatically clip the jump threads! I have a new Baby Lock Elegante that has an automatic jump thread cutter. Brother also has machines with this feature and most probably other makes do too. Yet I will have to admit that I don’t use this feature on my machine very often. Two reasons…one, it makes lots of rather big knots on the back of the fabric (and more than likely the back of my project is going to be seen) and two, I think I can actually clip the jump threads faster than the  machine. (Actually, I probably can’t, but I am rather impatient and it just seems faster to do it myself!)

I love the little “Embroidery Nips” from www.tools-gadgets.com They make awesome clipping scissors…easy to use, they don’t stress my hand and as they are CHEAP, it
doesn’t freak me out to accidentally knock them off my sewing table, which I do rather often…(probably something to do with that impatient streak of mine!)

Happy Stitching!
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

Blog Administrator Note: 
The Tools-Gadgets site mentioned in this post is not currently working! Yikes! The owner has been contacted and he said it is currently being reworked, but that anyone could still order those Embroidery Nips simply by sending a check or money order for $10.00 (that covers shipping and handling charges as well) to:

McKinley Owen Proctor
4677 Alarka Rd.
Bryson City, NC 28713

He’s a good guy and very faithful and prompt about filling orders.

Carolyn,

Hi Marilyn

No, Embird does not show you what the density setting in an embroidery design is. It just shows you the original Embird default density setting (4.0) if you open the Density screen once you re-open Embird after closing out of the program. However if you have been playing with the density settings and alter the density number and do not exit the program then the last setting that you used will remain ?active? until you close out of the program. For instance if you changed the density in a design to 5.0 and clicked OK then that setting would remain at 5 until you closed out of the program. But when you opened Embird again the density setting would then revert to the default setting of 4.0

I hope that makes sense.

Kind regards
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com
Step by Step Guides for all Embird programs.
*Pure New Zealand Merino Wraps and Beanies for Baby*
www.babylovemerino.com

What is the best way (or program to use) to clean up a jpeg or bitmap file prior to bringing it into an auto digitizing program?
 
Jan

Hi Jan

It depends on the program you are using for your digitizing as to how well the image needs to be cleaned up. For instance if you own PE Design/Palette and use either Design Center or Layout and Editing to create your embroidery then both will have different requirements for images.

In Design Center you need an image with consistent width lines and edges as Design Center automatically converts the image into an embroidery design with you filling the areas or spaces. If the outlines in the image are ragged, too thick in places or untidy and dis-jointed then Design Center is going to have more trouble deciphering the outlines or edges and will often result in a disappointing design unless you first “clean up” the image and make all the outlines of a consistent width.

However with Layout and Editing to create a design with an image it is far more manual. You import the image and use it as a template in the background and then use the Layout and Editing Tools to create your own areas of fill. This means that the image does not have to be perfect as Layout and Editing is not converting it to a design as it does in Design Center. You are only using the image in the background to “trace” over.

Both programs have the pluses and minuses but in one the image needs to be a lot clearer and consistent that the other.

As to programs used to “clean up” an image for a program such as Design Center or any of the other “Click and Fill” auto-digitizing programs then any graphics program with an eraser and pen will work fine. For many years I used MS Paint which is included with your computer. It is found under Start/Programs/Accessories/Paint. From there I moved onto Paintshop Pro but I don’t think that program is still available for sale. However there are any number of programs that will work just as well. You may even find that you can clean up images a little in your digitizing program. Design Center has its own erasers and pens available.

I do have a tutorial available from Secrets of Embroidery on cleaning up images and preparing your designs for embroidery ( Step by Step Guide to Preparing your Design for Embroidery) if you need more help.

Kind regards
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com
Step by Step Guides for all Embird programs.
*Pure New Zealand Merino Wraps and Beanies for Baby*
www.babylovemerino.com

Carolyn Duncan’s latest 4D Embroidery & Embroidery Extra DVD tutorial focuses on the features that are new in the 4D software, making it ideal for someone who is wondering what would be gained by upgrading. It covers the 4D Embroidery software and also deals with the additional features that are in 4D Embroidery Extra. The topics covered in this tutorial include 4D Configure, Thread Manager, Hoop Manager, Combining Designs, Encore, and 4D Vision. This high quality DVD is available in NTSC or PAL format and has a run time of approximately 60 minutes.

Also on the 4D Tutorials page is a FREE 4D Install Tutorial with helpful (and amusing) information on the ups and downs Carolyn encountered when installing 4D Software on her computer.

How do you clean a embroidery? I have a large (16×20) which is very dusty and dirty. I need to clean it without spoiling it. Thanks.

How you clean your embroidered project will be determined by the content of the fabric the project is embroidered on, details of the project construction (if it is a pillow with trimmings some of the trimmings may not be washable etc.) and the type of embroidery thread used.
 
Whenever possible, hand washing would be the preferred method of cleaning. Machine washing, even on a delicate cycle, may be too strenuous for your project and dry cleaning chemicals are very hard on fine fibers. If hand washing is out of the question, you might try one of the home dry cleaning products now available which are intended to be used in your dryer. (I would reduce the amount of time the item remains in the dryer and use the lowest possible heat setting.) If your project is merely dusty and not literally soiled and stained, you might have good luck freshening it up simply by tossing it in the dryer (inside a bag intended to be used in the wash with delicate items) along with a sheet of fabric softener and a slightly damp tea towel or two.
 
One word of caution when washing an embroidered project…if the project fabric was not pre-shrunk prior to embroidery, it will most likely shrink when washed. (Another good reason to remember to ALWAYS pre-shrink your project fabric!) Prevent as much shrinkage as possible when washing an un-preshrunk project by using cool water, very mild detergent and allowing it to air dry. Iron from the wrong side on a padded surface.
 
Good luck!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

What needle should I use when machine embroidering on satin???  JoAnn

Dear JoAnn,
 
References vary for embroidering on satin. However, I have had good luck using a size Schmetz 75/11 embroidery needle with my satin projects, both silk and synthetic. Supposedly, a Schmetz embroidery needle has a point that is neither sharp nor ball point, falling somewhere in between. I strongly suggest that you stitch out a sample on a scrap of your project fabric to determine the best needle to use. If you do not have a scrap of your actual project fabric, use something that is as close as possible to the fabric content and type for testing.
 
Good luck!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

Dear Evy
 
I have a Brother 190 embroidery machine and PE Design 6. My problem is that I found Lana thread by Madeira two years ago and have tried very often to embroider with it, but it is rather fragile and keeps breaking. Madeira stockists are very unhelpful as they have no experience of it and when I visit various quilting exhibitions and ask there, the reply is usually what machine do you have and then, as the Madiera thread is usually carried by a Bernina dealer, I am told I should have a Bernina machine! 
 
I am still trying to get through the jungle of PE Design and have bought PreDesign and the PE Design 6 tutorial from Artistitch to help me but still find it all rather daunting. I did manage to convert and stitch some pet photos rather successfully but they were far too dense and the finish is very hard. I was sooo excited that I had bought the machine and software but now feel rather deflated! My stockist doesn’t have another owner who I could work with  to learn.
 
Sorry for the long-winded need for advice. I am a person who loves new things and techniques and am totally frustrated!
 
Regards
Jacqui

Hi Jacqui
 
I’ll do my best to answer your Maderia thread question, and Secrets of Embroidery has forwarded your letter to Carolyn Keber also so that she may answer your question about PE Design.
 
I am assuming that you are talking about Maderia Lana 12 thread, which is like a textured yarn, made from acrylic and wool. This thread is a No. 12 weight and requires a large eyed needle. Some dealers recommend using the Schmetz Topstitch in size 90 or 100 along with a Maderia Bobbinfil #70 or Maderia pre-wound bobbins. Maderia also makes a special needle just for use with this thread known as the “Lana” needle. This type of thread is best used with a design that has been specially digitized for thicker thread. Using Lana 12 thread with designs digitized for normal weight embroidery thread may result in excessive broken threads and thread “nests” under the hoop. The upper tension on the machine should also be loosened. (Some dealers recommend loosening the tension as much as possible…but I would start out with small increments at a time.) It will probably take a little bit of experimenting on your part, don’t give up! You may also wish to experiment with this thread in bobbin work…winding the bobbin with the thread so that the pretty, finished piece will be the wrong side. Bobbin work is quite fun and can achieve amazing results.
 
I have seen this thread demonstrated on Baby Lock, Brother, Elna, Viking and Bernina machines. I’m quite certain that with special care (the right design, needle and tension settings) any machine will produce wonderful projects with Lana thread.
 
Good luck!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

Hi Jacqui

I am assuming from your email that you might be trying to use the Lana Thread by Madeira for your Photo-stitch embroidery designs. Let me tell you a little about both the thread and the PE Design Photo-stitch program.

The Lana thread is a 12 weight thread and the recommended needle size when stitching is 110 which is a very large needle comparative to the normal embroidery needle which is generally between 70 and 90. A 12 weight thread is very thick and is generally a bit fluffy or woolly as it is intended for embroidery designs so that they stand out a little more than the usual embroidery design. The usual embroidery thread that you would use in a regular embroidery design would range from the heavier 30 weight to a lighter weight 50 weight with my preference being 50 weight as I think designs always stitch better with this weight of thread. So you can see that if a thread is 12 weight then it will be very thick indeed. When stitching with this type of thread (12 weight) you would need to use a larger needle such as the 100 and then also lower the upper tension on your embroidery machine to allow the thread to pull through easier as it is embroidering.

If you are using this thread for Photo-stitch then I can understand why you are having such difficulty. I know it would be quite nice thread to give your embroidery a nice fluffy appearance if you are using it for animals but unless you adjust the density in the photo-stitch design it will be a nightmare to try and stitch. The reason is that the Photo-stitch program uses a scribble type effect for the stitching to create the right look to the embroidery. The design will stitch all over the show and its not until the embroidery is almost completed sewing that you can actually see how it will turn out. There are usually quite a number of jump stitches as well as lots and lots of stitching going in all directions. This creates quite a dense design - especially if the design was created using the default density settings for the program and this is using regular embroidery thread. If you are using Lana for these photo designs then with the thickness of the design (if it even finishes stitching properly) you would almost be able to use the embroidery design as a bullet proof vest it would be so thick. VBG!! Therefore you really need to lower the density in the Photo design if you want to use the Lana thread. I always lower my density even when I am using normal embroidery thread as the designs are quite thick so you definitely will need to adjust your density quite a bit lower for the Lana thread.

You don’t need a different machine at all - any machine will work - its just the tension, needle and density settings that need adjusted. Good Luck.

I hope that helps…..

Kind regards
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com
Step by Step Guides for all Embird programs.
*Pure New Zealand Merino Wraps and Beanies for Baby*
www.babylovemerino.com

How can you make a pin out of an embroidery design?

Dear Rose,
 
I like to make embroidered brooches (pins) using buttons-to-cover. Dritz carries a line of half ball or flat buttons-to-cover in a variety of sizes. (The button caps that have little “teeth” around the edge on the inside seem to work better than the ones without the teeth.) Simple remove the shank by squeezing it and wiggling it out of the cap before covering the button. Snap the button back in place and glue a small bar pin to the back. For some examples of covered button brooches, check out the projects on my button cover design pages at http://www.secretsof.com/content/350
 
I hope this helps!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com