Hi Carolyn, hope you’re back in the swing of things?? I recently updated my Embird and Iconizer programme from the 2004 to 2006 version - but after installing both I still see little folders of some of the designs instead of the actual image of the design itself - some of the icons show designs but I have to open the little folders to see others. Doreen in TX

Hi Doreen

To get the little images of your designs to show in Embird you need to open Embird Manager and go to Options on the Menu Bar and choose Iconizer settings. Make sure that Select All is checked in each of the Iconizer settings boxes and then Embird will show all formats as icons. Click OK before exiting the screen.

Yes, I am trying to get back into gear again after my holiday but we have a lot on our plate at the moment as we are due to move back into our home this week and we have a lot of packing and re-organizing to do - as well as making sure all our utilities are organized. My Internet may not be connected for a week or two so I may also have to deal with a backlog of emails when it does finally get connected once more at home. But that little problem is nothing compared to being without a home for the past year. I can live with a few inconveniences for a wee while.

Kind regards
 
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com

I have just received PE Design version 2. Will this work on my Windows XP? Is there much difference in this one and the latest PE Design? I have a Brother Innovis 1200 embroidery sewing in one. Thank you, Kerrie

Hi Kerrie

It’s a long time since I have seen version 2 of PE Design and back then the program came on floppy discs. You will need to install your V2 and then go to the Brother web-site and download version 2.5 (which is free) and upgrade to this later version. Here is the link for the download (just copy and paste it into your browser).

http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/bsc/public/us/us/en/dlf/dlfh/
000000/000000/dlfh000079.html?reg=us&c=us&lang=en&prod=
hf_design4eus&type2=47&os=63&flang=4&dlid=dlfh000079

I checked the Brother web-site and it doesn’t mention not being able to use V2 or V2.5 on XP so let’s hope that you can install and run it on XP okay.

Yes, there is quite a difference now between V2 and the latest version (V7) but to consider upgrading to V7 you need to consider whether you want to create your own designs for embroidery or if you just want to use the program for writing existing designs to a programmable card. You may find that a number of latest designs will not open in V2 as they will have been created for later versions of PE Design.

Best of luck. Kind regards
 
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com

I have two questions…
1. Can rayon thread grow old and weak? How long can it be kept?
2. I have all the correct settings on my machine, right bobbin thread, thread pathway is correct and yet I have bobbin thread showing. I have played with the tension also but the bobbin thread is still showing - what am I doing wrong?
Thank you,
Margo

Hi Margo,
 
Yes, rayon thread is like any other natural fiber, it will break down over time faster than it’s synthetic cousin. Rayon thread, just like rayon fabric should be stored away from direct sunlight, protected from extreme temperatures and not exposed to excessive humidity. If you can easily snap a length of rayon thread, without really trying, then it probably would be best to toss it. Stored well it will last years. I have some I am still using, six years old!
 
If you have to adjust the tension to keep the bobbin thread from showing with everything you stitch, it might be time to take your machine in for a check-up. Normal sewing should be just fine with the default tension settings in your machine. Typically you would only need to adjust the tensions if you are using a different type of thread in your bobbin than in top or if you are working on certain specialty fabrics. There are a couple of things you can do, though, before you head to the shop. Check to be sure that the bobbin case is clean and lint free. Tighten the little tension screw on the side of your bobbin case just a tiny bit. (Sometimes these screws seem to vibrate loose a little.) Some machines do not like prewound bobbins…they just seem to do better with your own machine wound bobbins that were made for them. Use the same type of thread in the bobbin as your top thread, or use bobbin weight thread. One may work better than the other depending on what machine you own. If you are winding your own bobbins, check to be sure that the thread has wound evenly and tightly. It should not be loose, floppy or have loops sticking out anywhere.
 
Sure hope this helps!
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com
 

Hi Evy, I have always trusted your opinion and you have always been so helpful. I want to purchase a simple software program. I mainly want to just insert names into designs etc. No digitizing. What would you recommend? I had a trial version of MasterWorks and it’s about 1800.00. (WOW) I want something with a lot of different fonts. Will your quilt designs be available on a CD by the end of the year when you have them all completed? Thanks Evy.

Hi Sylvia!
 
MasterWorks is actually digitizing software, and it’s very powerful, so I guess that’s why the big price. Have you looked at Baby Lock’s LetterWorks? It’s a lot less expensive and has 130 fonts, fills and monograms. Plus they have a package of just fonts that you can purchase later if 130 isn’t enough. I think this program is an add-on, though, you might have to already own Studio Plus or CustomWorks. Other than that, I’m not really familiar with any monogramming or lettering programs. Sorry, not much help to you there!
 
Yes, the Fashionetta Quilt designs with all four stippled half blocks and the four mini-corners will be available as a set at the end of this year. I’ve had so much fun with this quilt that I’ll be sad to see it end!
 
Take care, and Happy Stitching! I’m sure you are making lots of pretties.
 
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com
 

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I tried making snowflakes using stabilizer that dissolves away. I planned to stiffen them for hanging on a tree, etc. The result was not good - it lost its shape and I was not able to re-shape it. Any tips would be appreciated! Thank you, Bonnie

Dear Bonnie
 
Well, first of all, you need to be sure that you are using designs that are intended to be free-standing lace. If not, they will definitely fall apart when stitched on water-soluble stabilizer after it is dissolved away!

When using free-standing lace designs (especially ones that have a lot of open, airy space) you need to handle the project as little as possible when it is wet. Soak in a shallow, flat pan until the stabilizer is removed. Don’t crowd a bunch in a small bowl, you need plenty of water and it helps to drain it out and replace it with fresh water for another soak too. Carefully lift the design out and lay on paper towels. Press down on the design with another layer of paper towels to remove the excess water; lay carefully on a dry towel and allow to air dry. Don’t twist, wring, bunch up to squeeze or scrunch at any time during the soaking and drying process. You can also try draping a layer of tulle in the water on the bottom of the bowl and using that to lift the design out of the water. When you stiffen a free-standing lace design, use the same care while the project is wet with liquid starch.
 
It sounds like you are just having a re-shaping problem, but if your design is actually falling apart (as in the stitching is unraveling or not holding the parts together) then you might want to re-examine how you are stitching the designs. I find that a fabric type water-soluble stabilizer works better than the plastic, film type for designs with lots of stitches. Also, I spray the bottom of my inner hoop with temporary spray adhesive to help keep the stabilizer from shifting during stitching, preventing mis-registration of the stitches, which can lead to a design falling apart. Some folks like to use double sided sticky tape for this purpose too.
 
Good luck!
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com