06/21/2007 (4:27 pm)

Embroidering on Leather

Filed under: A Bit of Stitch-Evy H

I have a leather vest I would like to embroider on but do not want to ruin it. I have leather needles but have been unable to find any website that talks about any special things I need to do with leather. Any suggestions as to stabilizer, thread, etc? Thanks for any assistance.

Hello,

From time to time we get questions about embroidering leather. Here is what my friend, Rebecca Kemp Brent, book author and embroidery expert has to say on the subject:

Leather needles can indeed cut or permanently damage faux leathers and suedes, and they are not necessary for embroidering on leather. Instead, use a size 75/11 embroidery needle or, if thread breakage is a problem, a size 80/12 topstitching needle.

To minimize the risk that an embroidery design will perforate the leather, carefully test the design density on a scrap of the same leather that will be used in the project. The aim is to have the stitches closely spaced enough for complete coverage but not tight enough to cut the leather. Using a cut-away stabilizer may also help by supporting the stitches and hide even after the embroidery is complete.

If the ideal stitch placement yields less than satisfactory coverage, try substituting a larger (size 30) embroidery thread, or using two threads through the same needle eye.

Embroidery on leather is attractive and impressive, and you’ll probably find that the leather is more durable than you expect.

For more, see “Leather & Lace” in the January/February 2006 Creative Machine Embroidery (back issues available from www.sewnshop.com).

Here are a few other tips:

Use designs that are lightly digitized. No large filled areas or column satin stitches.

Fuse cut-away stabilizer to the back of the leather using temporary spray adhesive.

Hoops can leave permanent marks. Pad the top hoop with muslin strips or other soft material to prevent this.

Embroider at the slowest possible speed.

I hope this helps!
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

06/21/2007 (4:18 pm)

Embroidered Photo Frames

Filed under: A Bit of Stitch-Evy H

Hello, I am very interested in making machine embroidered picture frames as gifts, not just the embroidery side of it, but the whole frame. I have no idea how to do this, any ideas on how to do this would be really appreciated. Regards, Mary

Hi Mary!

I love to embroidery photo frames! You are right…they make great gifts!

Starting with a purchased plain canvas or paper frame (found in most craft shops) is the easiest way to create a sturdy, long lasting frame. Then it is just a simple matter of covering the front of the frame with embroidered fabric or fabric paper. Painting the frame to match the color of your chosen fabric makes a nicer frame. You might want to check out the current issue of Paper & Embroidery at www.cmemag.com for three fabric paper covered frame projects. You can view those projects at www. abitofstitch.com

To cover a purchased frame you need to make a template of the frame first. Just trace around the outside, measure the placement of the inside window, and transfer those measurements to your template to complete the frame. Cut the template out, trace around it on the fabric of your choice, leaving hooping room. Embroider the frame. Cut out the embroidered frame, glue to the purchased frame using permanent spray adhesive or fabric glue and cover the raw edges around the outside and inside window with trim.

To make your own frame using cardboard, create a front and back in the desired size. Trim the back piece slightly smaller than the front. Cut the window only in the front piece. Trace around the front piece on the fabric of your choice and embroider. Leave 1/2″ selvage around both the inside window and outside edge when you cut out the embroidered frame fabric. Wrap the selvages around the edges of the cardboard front frame piece. (You may wish to add a layer of thin quilt batting for padding.) Be careful at the inner corners, clipping only as far as absolutely necessary to fold the fabric under neatly. Cover the back of the cardboard frame with a piece of felt cut just slightly larger than the cardboard and glue along 3 edges to the front frame. The photo will then slip between the two cardboard pieces for display. Other trimmings, beads, buttons or 3D embroidered pieces can be glued to the frame with fabric glue for added interest.

I hope this helps…good luck with your frames!
Evy
www.abitofstitch.com

06/21/2007 (3:51 pm)

Endless Designs

Filed under: Embird-Carolyn K

Hi, I am wondering if it is possible to use Embird editor to make a design an endless design? I have a Viking D1 machine and would like to be able to do endless designs. I don’t have the hoop yet because I didn’t know if I could adapt designs in Embird to be endless ones. Thanks Fran D.

Hi Fran

Yes, you can use Embird to create designs for an endless design. In fact I have a small tutorial written especially for the D1 and the Endless Hoop as I have one myself. The lesson was written for Embird 2004 but it is still relevant. (It’s the third tutorial down on the page.)

Embird also can write the files to your floppy disc as well so you won’t even need the Viking software. I hope that helps you. Best of luck.

Kind regards,
Carolyn
http://carolynkeber.com
Tutorials for Embird 2006, Embird StudioV4, Sfumato, Cross Stitch, Font Engine and PE Design

06/21/2007 (3:38 pm)

Unable to Write Multiple Designs

Filed under: PE Design-Carolyn K

Hi Carolyn! A few months ago I purchased the upgrade from PE Design 4 to PE Design 6. I also purchased your tutorial for 6 ( PE Design 6 tutorials) the same day. You really explain things well & the changes from 4 to 6 makes it worth every penny.
 
When I first got 6 everything seemed to work fine. Then within a month of using it, the icon for writing multiple designs would not light up & I got an error message instead. My son (who built my computer) has tried everything he can, but no success. I still am able to write the current design to card. Do you know what’s wrong?
 
Another question I have is: now that I’ve installed the upgrade to 6, do I still need to keep PE 4 on my computer? Can other, newer models of embroidery machines by Brother, use PE4?
 
Thank you for all your help & keep writing those tutorials.  I would be lost without them.
 
Take care,
Nancy in New Berlin, WI

Hi Nancy

I am sorry to see that you’re having a spot of bother with your PEDS V6 program. Lets hope we can get it resolved. I just want to double check the method that you’re using to write the multiple designs to the card for Version 6.

To write more than one design to your card you need to open Layout and Editing and then go to File/Write to Card/Other Pes Files. A screen appears in which you can navigate to the folder where your designs are kept. Select a number of designs by holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard and then left mouse click on each design to select it. Then click the Blue arrow to place a copy of the designs in the right hand white space. Once the designs you wish to use are on the right hand side click the blue button at the bottom of the screen to write the designs to your programmable card. This command Write to Card/Other Pes Files only works if you are writing to the programmable card. It does not work for writing to a floppy disc or a USB Data stick. You need to use File/Save as in Layout and Editing for those types of media.

Is that any help to you?

Regarding keeping V4 on your computer -

If your V6 is an upgrade version and your Version 4 is a Full version then I would keep Version 4 on your computer as well as Version 6. That?s because if you decide to upgrade again (maybe to 7) then you do need a full version of PE Design/Palette on your computer. If you remove the full version then you will need to re-install it before installing another upgrade. The reason is that you must have a full version installed before the installation process will begin for an upgrade version. Personally I would rather keep my full version installed on my PC and then I don?t have to go fishing around amongst my Cds whenever I purchase an upgrade version. The programs don?t take up that much space on your PC and really are worth keeping there. I currently have three versions installed on my PC - 5, 6 and 7.

Yes, the newer models of Brother Machines still use PEDS V4. It?s the PES format that the machines read and that still remains the same.

I hope this information helps. In case you?re interested I am just finished an extensive tutorial on Text for PE Design/Palette for both versions 6 and 7. Take care and please let me know if you are successful in getting those designs to your card.

Kind regards,
Carolyn
http://carolynkeber.com

06/19/2007 (4:16 pm)

Embird & Studio Tutorial Printed Books

Filed under: Embird-Carolyn K

Now you can have the convenience of having two of Carolyn Keber’s wonderful Embird tutorials (her Step by Step Guide to Embird 2006 Tutorial and the Embird Studio V4 Tutorial) printed for you and delivered to your door!

Each of these comprehensive tutorials has over 400 pages and is presented in a soft-cover, spiral-bound book that lies flat when open. Printed in black and white, the books are 8.5″ by 11″ and approx. 1″ thick. Order your printed copy of the Step by Step Guide to Embird 2006 Tutorial or the Embird Studio V4 Tutorial today!

06/12/2007 (2:07 pm)

New Creating Text Tutorial for PE Design V6 & V7

Filed under: PE Design-Carolyn K

Carolyn Keber has a new tutorial for PE Design/Palette V6 and V7 which takes you step by step through Creating Text. This easy-to-follow 67 page tutorial covers the creation of text, the editing of text and individual letters, the settings for text and how to use them. Carolyn also shows you how to how to download and install True Type Fonts on your computer, how to use the Fit Text to Path command and how to turn those Wing Ding fonts into designs.

By the end of the tutorial you will not only have learned about creating text, but also how to edit and split your text, and about using the editing commands in PE Design/Palette. If you would love to find out all about creating text and lettering in PE Design/Palette Version 6 or 7 then this is the tutorial for you.

06/06/2007 (3:21 pm)

Trouble with Embird Alphabets

Filed under: Embird-Carolyn K
Hi Carolyn, 

I have several Alphabets downloaded from Embird. My problem, and it just started, is after I write my name or whatever and click on Properties to check my sizing the program does not finish writing it out but gives me a small white block where the % of completion is and then just freezes. I have to Control, Alt, Delete and start all over again. I may have to repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times before I can continue with my project. HELP!!!!

Myrtis


Hi Myrtis,

Are you having troubles with Font Engine or the Embird Alphabets which you have paid for and installed? Some folk have had problems from time to time with Font Engine freezing but with the latest builds of Embird this has largely been fixed. I have never had a problem with the Embird alphabets freezing and I am wondering if its actually your Embird program that needs re-installing. First try turning your computer off and leaving it shut down for 60 seconds. Then re-start the computer. This will fix any memory issues. Try the alphabets again. If you still have trouble then I would un-install Embird and start with a fresh install.

I hope that helps

Kind regards
Carolyn Keber
www.carolynkeber.com

06/06/2007 (3:10 pm)

Outline Stitching

Filed under: A Bit of Stitch-Evy H

What do you do when the final outline stitch does not exactly match the design? Gaps are left with no color.

Thank you,
Brenda Olmi

Dear Brenda,

So many things affect the finished product of an embroidery design…choice of fabric, type of thread, stabilizing and size of hoop. I suspect that one of these has caused the outline stitching around your design to get a case of gaposis. Please read my hooping and stabilizing suggestions at www.abitofstitch.com under Helpful Hints. If you have not kept your fabric from moving in the hoop (it moves with the push and pull of the needle and arm unless you keep it from moving!) then the outline stitch, if any, will be off track. Also, if you are stitching on knits and are using heavy or thick cut-away stabilizer, sometimes that extra loft creates distortion of the design area…this will also cause the outline stitch to be off. If you are working with a design that has been created in auto-digitizing software, it might be the design…maybe the pull compensation was forgotten to be applied for the outline stitch.

I have a set of handy fabric pens in lots of colors…when something I’m working on gets gaposis (I’m always wanting to stitch on something pretty weird and hard to stabilize correctly!) I fix my blank spots with a quick coloring job. You can purchase fabric pens at most large sewing/craft stores such as JoAnn’s, Michael’s Crafts and Hobby Lobby or find them on the net at: www.dharmatrading.com They have a great permanent fabric pen called FabricMate that comes in a fine point. Also, www.dickblick.com carries a variety of fabric markers…Pebeo Setakrib markers have double tips, one fine and one large.

I hope this helps!

 
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